Norway

Ja, vi elsker

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Bjørnstjerne Bjørnsonist on kuulnud kõik. Fakt. Bjørnstjerne Bjørnsoni olulisuses ei kahtle keegi. Fakt. Nii vastaks teile iga teine norrakas kui te julgeksite küsida, kes on see Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson, kellest nad räägivad erilise uhkuse tundega hääles. 

16-aastasena ei julgenud ma öelda, et mina polnud Bjørnstjerne Bjørnsonist midagi kuulnud. Ma noogutasin kaasa ja veel enne kui ma sain selgeks norra keele sain ma selgeks, et on asju, mida ei küsita, sest seda teavad kõik.  Ma sain ka teada, kes on Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson ja juba paar aastat hiljem kui ma külla tulnud onule Norra hümnist hakkasin rääkima, sain ma seda nime öeldes kasutada samasugust uhkesetunnet hääles. Sest Bjørnstjerne Bjørnsonist on kuulnud kõik. Fakt. Bjørnstjerne Bjørnsoni olulisuses ei kahtle keegi. Fakt.

„Kes see Bjørn Bjørnsen on?” küsis onu. Ma turtsatasin. 

„Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson,“ parandasin ma teda kõiketeadvalt, „ta oli silmapaistev Norra kultuuri-, kirjandus- ja poliitikategelane. Ta kirjutas artikleid, romaane, jutustusi, luuletusi, näidendeid, rääkis aktiivselt Norra ühiskonnas kaasa, kõige paremini on ta aga tuntud Norra hümni „Ja, vi elsker“ ja talupojajutustuste kaudu.“

„1903.aastal sai ta Nobeli kirjanduspreemia,“ lõpetasin ma uhkelt. Ma rääkisin seda kõike nii nagu oleks kõige loomulikum asi maailmas teada kõiki maailmakuulsaid norralasi, nende tegusid ja saavutusi, nii nagu mulle endale esimest korda tutvustati kõiki maailmakuulsaid Norra suurkujusid, kellest vaid norralased ise olid kuulnud. Norralastele meeldis rõhutada, et nii väikese rahvuse seast oli tulnud nii palju maailmakuulsaid ja silmapaistvaid isiksusi, kuid kui tagant järele mõelda, siis kasutasid nad sõna „maailmakuulus“ iga vähemgi tuntud norralase kohta. Kahe Norras veedetud aastaga olin ma ise sama tegema hakanud. Lisaks rohkem maailmakuulsate lillehammerlaste nagu Sigrid Undset tutvustamisele, said külla tulnud emme ja onu teada, et Lillehammeri kandist on pärit veel palju teisigi maailmakuulsaid norralasi: minu kirjanikest tuttavad Britt ja Oddvar, Maihaugeni rajaja Anders Sandvik, juustuhöövli-Thor, maavanem Knut ja otse loomulikult üks kuulsamaid tänapäeva kunstnikke Jakob Weidemann.

Sel nädalavahetusel käisime me läbi ka Aulestadist – maailmakuulsa kirjandus ja -kultuuritegelase kodumuuseumist (LINK). Ma oleksin tahtnud tegelikult ka muuseumi sisse minna, aga selleks ajaks kui me sinna jõudsime, oli Ida juba nii “vil ikke”-tujus, et see ei oleks mõistlik olnud. Niimoodi leppisime me jalutuskäiguga väljas ja olgugi, et ma oleksin VÄGA tahtnud maja ka seest näha (kui tahate põhjust teada, siis vaadake siit), aga päikesepaistelises pargis/aias jalutamine oli ka juba edusamm. Paar kuud tagasi püüdsime me seda kohta üles leida, kuid sõitsime valele poole ja nagu ma nüüd aru sain, siis umbes paar km enne õiget kohta andsime me alla ja sõitsime tagasi.  Nüüd ma vähemalt tean, kus muuseum asub. Ka see on üks neist kohtadest, kuhu ma soovitan teil minna, kui siiakanti satute (Gausdal asub 20km Lillehammerist). Ja mitte sellepärast, et siin elas maailmakuulus norrakas, vaid kasvõi sellepärast, et see on lihtsalt võrratult kaunis paik.

Pilet majamuuseumisse: 130NOK täiskasvanu, 65NOK lapsed (6-15a)

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Aulestad is beautifully located on the sunny side of Gausdal approximately 20 kilometres from Lillehammer. Experience the farm as it was when Karoline and Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson lived there, and get a look into their lives during an important time in Norwegian history. Together the couple created an urban European home in the country. Here we step back in time over 100 years, but the involvement of Bjørnson is always modern.

 

“The best in life is not peace, but wanting to do something” – Bjørnson  lived like the line in his poem. He spoke up for freedom and fairness – at home in Norway and in Europe, The word and his pen were his weapons. He was a builder of the nation and a Nobel laureate. Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson wrote stories, novels, historical plays and contemporary drama and approximately 400 poems that have inspired many musicians. He wrote thousands of letters, speeches and articles. Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson lived at Aulestad from 1875 until his death in 1910. 

Aulestad is open during the summer. Find the opening hours here. In high season there is a conducted tour of the home every hour  from 10.30 – 15.30.

More information: http://eng.aulestad.no/

Never lose your childish innosence

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Well. It took a bit time to get to vol 2 (vol1 you’ll find here). What can I do when there are so many (more?) important things happening, that I almost forgot I promised to share my TOP3 places for children and childish people in Lillehammer area. 

1. The place I suggest to visit FIRST when in Lillehammer area is the Norsk vegmuseum – the Norwegian Road museum. 
I had been walking there once before, and it was really really pretty, but as I am not a fan of cars or roads, I thoght the museum is not my cup of tea. Big mistake to think that. This is one of the coolest museums I have visited. Interactive, fun, with a lot of activities for big(ger) and small(er). We just popped in for a second, because we had visitors from Estonia and had a bit spare time. The second lasted for two hours. We just had so much fun there! Our favorite was the “drunken glasses experience” where you can test how straight you will walk when under the influence. Let’s say that I failed compleatly. 
And the best part? It’s all FREE. We will be back quite soon!

2.  I´ve been to Lilleputthammer once before, I think it was 14 years ago, I remember my sister was still a “baby” – 11yrs old. I could never have imagined to come back here with my own child. Now that Lillehammer is our hometown, I knew exactly where I need to go with her. To Lilleputthammer of course!
It is the most amazing family park on Earth (okay, I haven’t been to Disneyland, but I am sure Lilleputthammer is at least one of the most incredible places to visit with children), located 16 km from Lillehammer in Øyeris. Britt Ida was from Øyer, by the way, she lived on the highest mountain in a little fairy tale house. Driving to Øyer was emotional for me, it brought back so many memories. My first Christmas in Norway, my second Christmas in Norway, my third Christmas in Norway in JULY with my sister, my mom and my uncle. I had wished my sister could see experience the “Britt Ida Christmas” and  when we some years later visited her and Camilla in July, she remembered it. We had a traditional Christmas dinner and got Christmas presents. I got my own kransekake forms…
 
But back to Lilleputthammer. Almost as old as me (built in 1982) and is a miniture version of Lillehammer’s main street Storgata with many of the historical houses that were in Lillehammer in 1930’s. 
 
3. Hunderfossen is a…I don’t even have words for this place. The amusement park is quite expensive, but boy, there are so many things to do, so I promise every penny you spend is worth the experience. Yes, also for adults! I went there last year (read HERE) and yes, things didn’t go as perfectly as I had planned in my head, but this year Ida has grown, and so am I as a mother, so when we go now – I am sure we will have the time of our life. 
When you go there, don’t forget to take with you the picnic basket! When the weather is nice, there’s harder to think of a nicer place for a family picnic!

What to do in Lillehammer vol1

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Lillehammer is a small town, which is mostly known by the 1994 Olympic Games, but there is so much more to do in this town, and to get maximum out of the city, I will write down the places one simply must visit when in this town. And some suggestions where one should go when travelling with children. Lets start from the most famous attraction (or is the Ski Jumping Area the most famous?) Maihaugen.
Maihaugen Open Air Museum is one of the oldest open air museums in Europe and one of my favorite places to visit. The founder, Anders Sandvig, collected from old houses and farmyards within the Gudbrandsdalen valley to provide a sample of Norwegian culture and history in a museum. He first started in his backyard, but when his collection grew, in 1901, the town council offered him a permanent site for the museum. In 1904, the city of Lillehammer set aside an area already known as Maihaugen and bought Sandvig’s collection and established Sandvigske Samlinger (Sandvig Collections), the formal name for Maihaugen.
 
I have been walking there almost every week for a year now. On wintertime it is free of charge to walk in the park (but you cannot see inside the houses and there are no activities, it’s just pretty), on summer time the museum is opened for free from 07:00-08:00 and 17:00-22:00. 
Yesterday we went there during official opening hours (ticket for adults 195NOK, 90NOK for students) and it was so much fun, so different, so many activities…You can visit many of the houses and see how people in Middle Ages lived, you can visit the trainstation and train, post museum, walk in old Lillehammer from 1920’s and visit the residential area which consists of time-typical houses from almost all decades in 20th century. 
 
Maihaugen tells the history of how people have been living in the valley of Gudbrandsdalen from the Middle Ages until today. Social Institutions such as a church, school, post office, railway station, shops, prisons and military facilities are all represented at the museum. The Garmo stave church is one of the main attractions. In 1882, but there is so much to see and do for everyone. The main attraction for my 2,7yrs old daughter are of course the farm animals. Modern children have modern grandmas now, the grandmas don’t have goats and chickens and other animals like they did in my childhood, that’s why it is important to have living museums like Maihaugen.
Make sure to visit it when in Lillehammer!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My top10 places in Oslo

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I often get asked what to visit/see when in Norway. I cannot say I know all the tourist attractions, so this post is just a suggestion of places I have visited, I would visit again and can suggest to visit.

1. My absolute favorite place in Oslo is Oslo Operahouse. The white marble and glass house sparkles like a glacier in Oslofjord. And this is the world’s first – and only!- opera house on which you can walk up onto the roof! Views from the top stretch as fas as the eye can see over Oslofjord.
And the modern part of Oslo which is called Barcode is right there. If you’ll like modern arhitecture, you love this funky part of town. FREE

Foto: visitnorway.com

2. Vigelandsparken was my favorite place in Oslo until they built the opera house, It is one of Norway’s most visited attractions, life work of Gustav Vigeland with more than 200 sculptures in bronze and granite. Sinnataggen and Monolith are of course the most famous sculptures. 
I sometimes miss having the possibility to go there every weekend, in every weather, when I felt like. 
FREE

3. I love walking on Aker brygge. It’s a district for shopping, restaurants and night life, but it is absolutely fantastic to walk around, look at the boats and be part of the vibe of a Norwegian city. And it’s free to walk there, unless you start shopping of course;)

 

4.  Skiing is important in Norway, so Holmenkollen is a must see for everyone who’s into sports (history). Holmenkollen hosted Winter Olympics in 1952, it also has a ski musem with free entrence. AND a wonderful view to the city again – if you like taking pictures;)  FREE

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5.Oslo City Hall, Botanical Garden and Grünerlökka – the local hipsterville, Akershus Fortess are also worth a visit, especially when travelling on a budget. For overview over museums with free admission go to http://www.visitoslo.com, there are also some museums which have free entrence on Thursdays. 
6. And of course a walk on Karl Johan – the main street.  The street starts at railway station and leads to the Royal Palace.

7. Again I have to say that this is one of my favorite places – The Bygdoy “museum island” with open air museum, Viking Ship Museum, Fram museum (which hosts world’s most famous polar ship and introduces us three polar explorers) and Kon- Tiki museum. All the museums are interesting, but for me Kon-Tiki was the most fun. I mean to see the rafts on which T. Heyerdahl travelled across the Pasific Ocean – it’s almost hard to believe some was that crazy. And I like T. Heyerdahl, I have always liked to read about his expeditions (and also personal life), so for me this museum is a place where I would always go back. 

 Fram museum: Adults    100 kr, Children and students   40 kr
Kon-Tiki: dults    100 kr, Children and students   40 kr
Viking Ship museum: Adults 80, children under 18 free

 


8. Munch-museet for me is absolutely a must-see place, because E.Munch is one of favorite painters. I don’t know if it is as interesting for people who are not interested in Art. I still recommend to visit it. They usually also have an exhibition of contemporary art in the museum. At the moment there is an exhibiton “Edvard Munch + Jasper Johns” (check out morehere)

Entrence fee adults 100-120NOK
Under 18 free

9.  Not that I have been to Tusenfryd amusement park myself, BUT I have always thought that one day we just have to go there. And I believe when travelling with children, it is a must, especially when the poor ones have been to a museum after another;) 

Check their homepage http://www.tusenfryd.no



10. Astrup Fearnley museum is a place I haven’t visited yet, but I still know that this is a place I recommend YOU to visit. I think this must be one of the coolest art museums in the world. And just look at the building itself, it’s a sightseeing on its own. So when you are walking on Aker brygge, Tjuvholmen, where the museum is located, is right there. 

Entrence fee adults 120NOK
Students 80NOK
Under 18 free

That’s all about Oslo this time. It is not a classical historically beautiful town where each building is a sightseeing itself with a long history to tell, but there is something about Oslo. It’s inviting. I like the town.  Next time we’ll meet in Lillehammer. Via blog. But when you are here, don’t forget to visit my little shop on Storgata 91, 2 floor. @nesteesti on Instagram:) 

News from our nEST

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Do you know why I have been in Norway for over a year now? I got this CRAZY idea to open a shop with Estonian design in Norway. I am known for crazy ideas, but this one here… This is even beyoooond crazy.  I almost cannot believe that I actually made it happen. This has been the hardest year in my life – the losts, the lessons, the breakdowns – and if you ask me if I would dare to start with a project like nEST again, my answer would be “no”. It is insane risk and I also must say  thatbbefore opening the shop I freaked out and wanted to quit, I felt I don’t have enough knowledge ( and before maternity leave I had worked with export to Scandinavia for over ten years!).

The reason I continued was the signed agreements. Without it, I think I would not be in Norway today. I kept asking myself why the hell did I need all this.
But there probably is a reason. It has been more than a challenging year, for me, my family, it has been a year of critics, comments, rumours, but I have learnt a lot. As a entrepreneur, person, mother and wife. I know I have failed in many positions, as a mother and wife most, but the more I am thankful for the lessons, the reunions, new friends, who have become almost familymembers.
nEST has had better and worse times. The start was probably worst, a moderate growth followed and now I am back to worse. Moving the shop made me invisible and I start from zero again. It took six months to get people to visit the old shop, now it has gone five months and I finally see some interest again. I keep my fingers crossed that my efforts will have a result.
Will I survive while waiting? I really really really hope. Is hope enough to succeed?
I have smiled, cried, been bitter, disappointed, sad …The year has been an emotional roller coaster, but I think perhaps all this negative is actually in a way a positive thing. It made me think and move. In directions I thought are impossible. Isn’t the impossible often the untried? And now I try. It’s too early to talk about anything, but I am working.
I wish to thank everyone who have had the patience to be on this ride with me. It means a lot to me.
Visit our Facebook page: http://www.facebook.com/nestbutikk and follow us on Instagram @nesteesti. And et your friends know about us:)

When there is a delay

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I was supposed to pick up someone from Gardermoen, but there was a three hours delay with departure from Riga, so I thought this must be a sign. A sign to finally go visit Eidsvollbygningen nearby. I have lived in Norway all together four years and always said that I want to see this building, but as you understand…I never did. 

To start from the beginning I at first wanted to take train to Gardermoen and stay at a hotel in Oslo, but then I looked at rental cars prices (which for my are terrifying, almost 10 times more expensive than in Estonia!) and as it cost almost the same as hotel+train, I chose the rental car. I wonder if the plane had been delayed also if I had taken the train? 

Anyway.
I had three hours and a car (God, how good it was to drive with automatic gear for a change), so Eidsvoll it will be I decided! It was beautiful! The only sad part is that I had noone to share this beauty with and I decided it would be wrong for me to visit the house alone. I want to share “my Norway” with someone. I walked in the park and thought about the history. 

What is i that makes the Eidsvoll House so special? 

Eidsvoll House (Eidsvollsbygningen) is a house full of exciting history! For Norwegians it is one of the most important national symbols, inextricably tied to the constitution, independence and the dramatic events of 1814, which are celebrated on the 17th of May every year. This is why Eidsvoll House became Norway’s first national monument in 1837. Numerous extensive restoration operations have all been directed towards recreating the historic site of the birth of the modern Norwegian state.However, Eidsvoll House is more than just a monument to politics. An ironworks was situated here since the early 1600s, and a works owner residence dating from approximately 1770 constitutes part of the main building. When Carsten Anker created his luxurious residence around the turn of the 19th century, it became one of the country’s most modern private residences and was modelled on French and Danish ideals. Anker’s passionate attention to detail and sure sense of style is reflected in everything from the neo-classicist architectural main features down to the details of the interior.


I hope the photos show a little bit of the beauty of this house from outside. Now I want to go in! My mom and sister will visit me soon, maybe we should come here? After all we are used to drive long distances by car and Lillehammer is only 1,5h away.

And look at this amazing little villa! It is the sweetest cutest most romantic kindergartens I’ve seen in my life. Looks like Pippi Longstocking’s house doesn’t it? How cool it must be to go to kindergarten like this. Called a “Duckling”. 


It was peaceful and quiet in Eidsvoll, it was like walking in another century. In 1814:) A perfect place for a family picnic. I do hope my mom is willing to drive here in June, I think the museum will be worth a visit!

Kjære Deg!

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Kjære Deg!

Dette er et personlig brev rett fra hjertet til Deg! Jeg har hatt butikken her i byen ett år nå, har hatt bedre dager og dårligere dager, men vært takknemlig for alle kundene, støtte og gode ord. Du sa at du var glad at jeg kom tl byen, med ting som er litt annerledes, som ikke kan kjøpes fra kjedebutikker.
I januar bestemte jeg å flytte til 2.etasje hos naboen (yes, vi leker), det er 5 meter fra gamle butikken (og 50 meter fra Lilletorget hvor du stopper når du er på handletur i gågata), jeg har reklamert at jeg flytter/flyttet og gateskiltet står foran butikken, men du finner meg ikke lenger.

Noen ganger finner du veien til “Yes, vi leker” butikken, kommer inn i butikken, men stopper ved trappen og sier til ungene/mannen/venninner: “nei, vi skal ikke opp dit, det er ingenting for oss der!”
Jeg kommer fra et annet land, men har alltid lært at vi ikke skal dømme/bestemme oss før vi er 100% sikre på ting. Det er 14 trinn opp trappen. Jeg ber bare en ting – ta de 28 ekstra skritt og gi meg en sjansje!
Du likte meg før, ingenting har forandret seg i 2.etasje. Eller egentlig… MYE har forandret. Vi har større utvalg av ting fra dyktige håndarbeidere fra BÅDE Lillehammer og mitt hjemmeland. Estland.

Vet du at ved å kjøpe sokker her støtter du en nydelig dame borte i Estland som har 3000 norske kroner i pensjon i måneden? Det er min bestemor. Du støtter en alenemor med to barn, en ung designer med store drømmer, en ung kunstner. Du støtter mange ved å gi meg en sjansje å bli (gjen)kjent med deg. Ta 14 trinn opp trappa, vær så snill!

Du støtter meg – en drømmer med håp om at små koselige gågater med små butikker ikke forsvinner. Gi meg en sjansje!

Del gjerne denne posten med vennene dine. You may say I’m a dreamer, but I’m not the only one.

nEST butikk

Storgata 91, 2615 Lillehammer (2.etasje, inngang fra “Yes, vi leker”)

http://www.facebook.com/nestbutikk

instagram: @nesteesti

info@nestshop.eu
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Vaata tõlget

Hidden treasure. And where? In Moelv?

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I have taken the train from Oslo to Lillehammer thousands of times since 1997, but not once during these almost 20 years have I been to Moelv – a small town before Lillehammer and I have always thought it´s one of those ghost towns with now people and no life. I don’t know where I got it from, but this is what I have thought about Moelv for 19 years.

Two months ago we moved to Ringsaker and instead of driving to Lillehammer, we now turned to a road via Moelv. Can you imagine how surprised I was when I saw main street in lovely evening lights and people walking on the street? It turned out Moelv is a charming little town. I felt ashamed. And then I saw this house. Cafe Johnsen ( http://artdeco-retro.no/om-oss/)

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Cafe in an old house, together with a retro/art deco second hand shop. I am a sucker for places like this. I dream of having a small café+shop  just like that. It has always been my dream. And there it was – like a dream. In Moelv. Town I had thought has no life. I had no idea that a small treasure like this could be hidden there.

During Easter Holiday we decided to pay this shop/café a visit ((we live 15 km from Moelv) . My friend said they have the best homemade cakes there. I love cakes. More than life. So of course we sat in car and drove there.

You know, I actually have no words to describe this place. It was beyond belief. It was like a secret world hidden in children’s fantasies, a world that opens when you knock on that mysterious door in the cupboard. It was like a Villa Villekulla full of most amazing old things. A Poul Henningsen lamp was one of the first things I saw. Have I told you that I have another dream? No? It includes an Artichoke, a Swan and Danish Design. Yes, I mean an Arne Jacobsen chair and Poul Henningsen lamp.

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This shop is without one of the coolest shops I have visited. Unfortunately the prices for me (at the moment!) are unreachable, but seriously if you like old things this is the place to visit. The owners have an extraordinary good taste. I am sorry my photos are not with the best quality, but just to give you a hint, here are some examples of things they have in their selection.

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It was hard not to notice this painting. For a second I felt like a teenager. Or a desperate houswife. Wait a second? But I AM a desperate housewife. No wonder this painting caught my eye;)

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We have an expression in Estonian “like an Elephant in a China Shop”, I looked at my 2,5years old and kind of felt she is the elefant from that expression. A cute one, but still an elephant. I was afraid she will break something extreamly valuable, so we headed back to the café part.

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Oh, wait – before we go to café, take a look upstairs. The chairs, the coach…Do I need to say more? I don’t know if they live there, but it sure is full of warmth and love and of course good taste.

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And then the café. When I said one of the first things I noticed was the Poul Henningsen lamp I actually lied. The first I noticed was one of the owners who greeted us with the biggest smile (he recognized my friend) and asked if we would like to have coffee and home made “rullekake”. Ida received an ice cream. As said, the café looks like Pippi Longstocking is living there and as a huge fan of Pippi, I of course liked the café as well.

“But I have to go and tell Gerhardt that you are here”, Bjørn says and runs up to the second floor. A minute later his (life)partner comes down. He’s barefoot and casually dressed, but looks oh so elegant. He smiles like a diva, greets us with hugs and compliments my scarf. I am in love! Too bad I am married. Okay I am kidding, but these two gentelmen…They are so charming. (Note to self: perhaps I should visit the shop tomorrow?)

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We eat the cake (which is delicious!), chat and as little fashionista is in a bad mood we thank for us and leave the magical world of Art Deco . The two owners continue with their everyday work…

Make sure you visit them when you are in Moelv. Or in Lillehammer, take the extra trip to Moelv. Don’t be like my who judged the town for 19 years without even being there.

Artdeco Retro
Åsmarkvegen 10 (Klikk her for kart)
2390 Moelv

Telefon: 91 56 50 17
Epost: 91565017@online.no

(Note to self: maybe I should move my shop to Moelv. It seems to be a cooler/more hipster town than Lillehammer?)

Three of the photos used in this post I borrowed from their homepage. I hope they don’t mind.

 

A journey through the Norwegian landscape

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I had the honour of celebrating my 35th birthday at Maaemo restaurant in Oslo, not a long time after they had received their third Michelin star. I have dreamt about visiting this restaurant for many years, but as the price is steep, very steep, I have never even thought it will be more than a dream. Until this Saturday.

We arrived to Maaemo 10 minutes before 12 o’clock (how lucky coinsidence was it that the only available time in March was on my birthday? The next available time for booking a table was in June) and it seemed like they knew we are arriving exactly then, because a smiling waiter was waiting for us the minute we came near the building.

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I was blown away by the interior. So elegant, yet so simple, so “motherearthy” – the photos on the walls were fenomenal ( I especially loved the one by the restroom), the view to Oslo Barcode…I cannot find words. This small restaurant has limited tables which gives an exclusive feel, each dish is introduced by the chefs themselves makes it personal and unforgettable.

The entire kitchen is in glass and located on the second floor and just before desert we got to go upstairs to take a look.

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It´s not only the food one remebers from vistit to the restaurant, but also the  service. I feel that this was really world class. It´s superb from the start with the discussion about the freshness of the food. The staff knew every little  detail about the origin of the food.

I don’t know too much about the Champagnes (only that I love it!), but the Charles Hedsieck Brut Reserve which we got served first, was much more than only a Champagne. It was a perfect start for the perfect lunch.

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Th lunch with 20 courses seems too long but it´s mostly bite sizes. Nevertheless we spent almost four  hours at the restaurant and the 20 plate fixed course was an enchanting journey to  Norwegian culinary delights from Jerusalem artichokes to  reindeers to 200 years old clams, oysters, goat cheese and waffles.

The lunch menu really was a feast for the palate. Each dish was delicious with lots of unusual combinations and ingredients from ants and reindeer heart, but the cooking is not about the unusual, it is about creating new and tasty dishes that everyone would enjoy. My favorite without doubt was the “emulsion of raw Norwegian oysters from Bømlo with warm sauce made from mussels and dill” and the “liquid waffle mountain tea made only from wild herbs found in Bøverdalen.”

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Rakfisk, rømmegrøt, fenalår, brunost and lomper have never tasted better. Last I had rømmegrøt (cooked sour cream porridge) was in 1997 and it was the worst experience of my life. The rømmegrøt with smoked reindeer heart was something totally different.

The 10 wines/champagne, a cider and a beer complimented the dishes, but my favourites were the 2012 Ratzenberger Bacharacher Posten Riesling Spätlese and 2010   Domaine Thibert Pouilly-Fuisse Les Cras . I felt sorry for my husband who was driving and had to have the “water menu”, he would have enjoyed the danish Hvede  N447 beer.

Maaemo was beyond our already high expectations based upon its reputation. From the warm arrival greeting to departure, it was the most amazing culinary adventure. So many courses, so many interesting tastes, visuals, smells that I cannot describe with words.It is  a performance of art and tastes you won’t forget, service that was fantastic and meeting the chefs/seeing the kitchen makes it so special.

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As a parting gift, guests are  given an envelope containing the menu and a series of black and white photos illustrating various locations in Norway where the food is sourced. A visit to Maaemo is less about dining and more about enjoying an experiential adventure – this is your entertainment for the day/evening.  This is not about the ego of the chief. It is about the customer and the experience.

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Football is better than sex

/ Eveliis / Leave a comment
There is a song in Estonia, which states that football is better than sex. I’ve never understood this statement, you cannot compare something so boring with something so enjoyable. If they’d sing “food is better than sex”, then I’d agree. At least after yesterday’s visit to Hvelvet restaurant on Stortorget Lillehammer.
I actually owe you a review from December when we were there first time to try the lutefisk menu. It was just beautiful and I felt a bit bad that I had said there is no good restaurants in this town. But there is. The one standing majestetically on the market place, appropriately for an house which used to be a Norwegian Bank.
Now during the Youth Olympics they have a special menu with the finest ingredients and tastes of Norway. It can be served as 3,5 or 7-cours dinner, accompanied with the best selection of wines (wine menu costs extra).
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As a starter we had a creme soup of Earth Apple with Fenalår. This was a soup of Masterclass. So delicate and tasteful. I would say devine. The downside of it was that we didn’t order extra food for Ida (unfortunately the had french fries and sausages for children) and as she usally does not eat much, we decided to share our food with her. She refused to share the soup with us. And you know what they say, when a child loves food? Then it really must have been good!
For main course I had “skrei” – the king of Cod as it is known worldwide. The pearly white fish from Lofoten together with cauliflower pure, risoni and marinated onions was beyound belief. It was a perfect combination of tastes. The sour in onion with Riesling which was served with this dish, was a bit like tasting heaven.
My husband had a honeyglazed duck with root parsley, rosehip broth and Savoy cabbage. I could see the happiness in his eyes. He said he had not had such a good duck since Diip ( a small restaurant we owned in Estonia.
For dessert the others had chocolatenemesis with black currant syrup and rasberry jelly and ice cream. Ida ate my dessert, but I was not too sad. For the first I was already full from the two courses and I am not too fond of chocolate desserts.

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We found out that Ida has an expensive taste. It is second time she behaves well in this restaurant (and she is actually in the age where she doesn’t know what “behaving well” means) and she ate. She never eats. By the way, she also slept yesterday and we know she actually doesn’t think highly of sleeping at nights either.
When we left, she also had to tip the waiters/waitresses. He got a five-kroner coin, but the girls were luckier – they got papermoney. In real world it may have been our check, but in a world of a two year old it probably was a (five)hundred bill. That’s how satisfied she was with the dinner. And so were we. It is definately the place you have to eat when visiting Lillehammer.