A journey through the Norwegian landscape

I had the honour of celebrating my 35th birthday at Maaemo restaurant in Oslo, not a long time after they had received their third Michelin star. I have dreamt about visiting this restaurant for many years, but as the price is steep, very steep, I have never even thought it will be more than a dream. Until this Saturday.

We arrived to Maaemo 10 minutes before 12 o’clock (how lucky coinsidence was it that the only available time in March was on my birthday? The next available time for booking a table was in June) and it seemed like they knew we are arriving exactly then, because a smiling waiter was waiting for us the minute we came near the building.

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I was blown away by the interior. So elegant, yet so simple, so “motherearthy” – the photos on the walls were fenomenal ( I especially loved the one by the restroom), the view to Oslo Barcode…I cannot find words. This small restaurant has limited tables which gives an exclusive feel, each dish is introduced by the chefs themselves makes it personal and unforgettable.

The entire kitchen is in glass and located on the second floor and just before desert we got to go upstairs to take a look.

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It´s not only the food one remebers from vistit to the restaurant, but also the  service. I feel that this was really world class. It´s superb from the start with the discussion about the freshness of the food. The staff knew every little  detail about the origin of the food.

I don’t know too much about the Champagnes (only that I love it!), but the Charles Hedsieck Brut Reserve which we got served first, was much more than only a Champagne. It was a perfect start for the perfect lunch.

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Th lunch with 20 courses seems too long but it´s mostly bite sizes. Nevertheless we spent almost four  hours at the restaurant and the 20 plate fixed course was an enchanting journey to  Norwegian culinary delights from Jerusalem artichokes to  reindeers to 200 years old clams, oysters, goat cheese and waffles.

The lunch menu really was a feast for the palate. Each dish was delicious with lots of unusual combinations and ingredients from ants and reindeer heart, but the cooking is not about the unusual, it is about creating new and tasty dishes that everyone would enjoy. My favorite without doubt was the “emulsion of raw Norwegian oysters from Bømlo with warm sauce made from mussels and dill” and the “liquid waffle mountain tea made only from wild herbs found in Bøverdalen.”

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Rakfisk, rømmegrøt, fenalår, brunost and lomper have never tasted better. Last I had rømmegrøt (cooked sour cream porridge) was in 1997 and it was the worst experience of my life. The rømmegrøt with smoked reindeer heart was something totally different.

The 10 wines/champagne, a cider and a beer complimented the dishes, but my favourites were the 2012 Ratzenberger Bacharacher Posten Riesling Spätlese and 2010   Domaine Thibert Pouilly-Fuisse Les Cras . I felt sorry for my husband who was driving and had to have the “water menu”, he would have enjoyed the danish Hvede  N447 beer.

Maaemo was beyond our already high expectations based upon its reputation. From the warm arrival greeting to departure, it was the most amazing culinary adventure. So many courses, so many interesting tastes, visuals, smells that I cannot describe with words.It is  a performance of art and tastes you won’t forget, service that was fantastic and meeting the chefs/seeing the kitchen makes it so special.

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As a parting gift, guests are  given an envelope containing the menu and a series of black and white photos illustrating various locations in Norway where the food is sourced. A visit to Maaemo is less about dining and more about enjoying an experiential adventure – this is your entertainment for the day/evening.  This is not about the ego of the chief. It is about the customer and the experience.

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Football is better than sex

There is a song in Estonia, which states that football is better than sex. I’ve never understood this statement, you cannot compare something so boring with something so enjoyable. If they’d sing “food is better than sex”, then I’d agree. At least after yesterday’s visit to Hvelvet restaurant on Stortorget Lillehammer.
I actually owe you a review from December when we were there first time to try the lutefisk menu. It was just beautiful and I felt a bit bad that I had said there is no good restaurants in this town. But there is. The one standing majestetically on the market place, appropriately for an house which used to be a Norwegian Bank.
Now during the Youth Olympics they have a special menu with the finest ingredients and tastes of Norway. It can be served as 3,5 or 7-cours dinner, accompanied with the best selection of wines (wine menu costs extra).
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As a starter we had a creme soup of Earth Apple with Fenalår. This was a soup of Masterclass. So delicate and tasteful. I would say devine. The downside of it was that we didn’t order extra food for Ida (unfortunately the had french fries and sausages for children) and as she usally does not eat much, we decided to share our food with her. She refused to share the soup with us. And you know what they say, when a child loves food? Then it really must have been good!
For main course I had “skrei” – the king of Cod as it is known worldwide. The pearly white fish from Lofoten together with cauliflower pure, risoni and marinated onions was beyound belief. It was a perfect combination of tastes. The sour in onion with Riesling which was served with this dish, was a bit like tasting heaven.
My husband had a honeyglazed duck with root parsley, rosehip broth and Savoy cabbage. I could see the happiness in his eyes. He said he had not had such a good duck since Diip ( a small restaurant we owned in Estonia.
For dessert the others had chocolatenemesis with black currant syrup and rasberry jelly and ice cream. Ida ate my dessert, but I was not too sad. For the first I was already full from the two courses and I am not too fond of chocolate desserts.

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We found out that Ida has an expensive taste. It is second time she behaves well in this restaurant (and she is actually in the age where she doesn’t know what “behaving well” means) and she ate. She never eats. By the way, she also slept yesterday and we know she actually doesn’t think highly of sleeping at nights either.
When we left, she also had to tip the waiters/waitresses. He got a five-kroner coin, but the girls were luckier – they got papermoney. In real world it may have been our check, but in a world of a two year old it probably was a (five)hundred bill. That’s how satisfied she was with the dinner. And so were we. It is definately the place you have to eat when visiting Lillehammer.