nature

“Aga teeme nii, et see on natuke meie kodu ka!”// One of the most wonderful places in the world

/ Eveliis / 2 Comments

Istume Idaga hytta terrassil. “Emme, kas see on meie kodu?” küsib ta.

“Ei, see on Satu kodu, aga meie võime siin puhata,” vastan.

“Aga kunagi kui ma beebi olin, siis see oli minu kodu,” ütleb Ida ja vaatab mõtleva pilguga ringi. 

“Jah,” noogutan ma, “kui sa beebi olid, siis me elasime siin, aga tegelikult see on ikka tädi Satu kodu.”

Ida noogutab. Ütleb “mhm” ja lisab siis: “Aga teeme nii, et see on natuke meie kodu ikka ka, et siis meil kõigil on kaks kodu!”

Naiivne jutuajamine, aga samas polegi otseselt nii vale.

Meil on au, uhkus ja õnn seda imelist kohta tõepoolest poole kohaga oma koduks nimetada. Muidugi on Ussipesa meile ülekõige armas, kuid iga kord kui me hytta´sse tuleme valdab mind nii meeletu tänutunne. Tänutunne, et keegi on meid niivõrd usaldanud, et oma kodu meile koduks andnud; tänutunne, et meil on võimalus siia alati puhkama tulla; tänutunne, et me paar aastat tagasi juhuslikult saime tuttavaks inimesega, kellest sai meie pereliige või kes meid võtab kui pereliikmeid; tänutunne, et selline paik olemas on.

Ma võin ausalt öelda, et pildid ja sõnad ei anna edasi pooltki, et kirjeldada seda kui maagiline ja muinasjutuline on see paik. Iga ilmaga. Paar päeva tagasi oli päikeseline hilisuvi. Imeilus. Täna on sügistormine varasügis. Imeilus. Järgmine kord kui me siia tuleme on võib olla juba talv…

Eelmisest postitusest ajendatuna siis ma usun vaat et parem kui lehma lellepoja poolt päranduseks saadav Balil asuv villa   on see võimalus, mis meile siin on antud. Võimalus selles kohas elada ja puhata, teha siin oma mälestusi. Maailma üks imelisemaid paikasid!

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We are sitting on hytta’s balcony. “Mummy, is this our home?” she asks.

 “No, this is Satu’s home, but we can have a holiday here,” I reply.

 “But when I was baby, this was my home,” says Ida and looks thoughtfully around.

 “Yes,” I nod, “when you were a baby, we lived here, but it is still aunty Satu’s home.”

 Ida nods. Says “mhm” and adds: “But let’s pretend that this is a bit our home too, so we all have two homes!”

 Very naïve conversation, that is not so wrong after all.

 We have the honor, privilege  and luck to call this place our second home. Of course, Ussipesa is above everything our favorite place, but every time we come to hytta, I feel very grateful. I am so grateful that somebody trusts us that much to give her home for us to use as our home; grateful, that we can always come here for a holiday; grateful to have met this person couple of years ago by accident, who by now has become a part of our family and who sees us as her family; grateful that this place exists.

 I can assure that the pictures and words will not be able to describe even half of HOW magical this place is. No matter what the weather is. Couple of days ago it was sunny and warm like late summer. Very beautiful. Today is stormy autumn. Very beautiful. Next time when we come, it might already be winter …

 I believe that having the opportunity to call a place like this your second home is so much more valuable than inheriting a big villa from an uncle you never knew. The opportunity to live here and relax, make our memories. One of the most wonderful places in the world.

 

 

 

Kala või kunst? Külm või kuum?//Hot n Cold like in Kate Perry song

/ Eveliis / 7 Comments

Ma pidin nädalavahetusel Norra minema (jap, alles saime koju, ma tean ma tean), aga juhtus hoopis nii, et laupäeva hommikul istusime me Marekiga “Tiiu” peal ja sõitsime Hiiumaa poole. Minu puhul pole ju imestada, et plaanid muutuvad  ja rohkem kui paar päeva ei oska ma ette planeerida, kus (isegi millises riigis) ma parasjagu olla võiks.

Hiiumaaga on selline naljakas lugu, et ma olin varem Hiiumaal käinud vaid kaks korda, aga tänu kohvikupäevadele käisin ma eelmisel suvel Hiiumaal tihedamini kui Tartus ja armusin täielikult. Hiiumaa pakub kõike seda, mis mulle meeldib. Loodus, rahu, kunst, kultuur, toiduelamused. Pole siis ime, et ma armunud olen. Ja miks oodata suveni, et seda võrratut saart uuesti külastada? Eriti kui on nii ilus talv nagu praegu.  Lapsevaba nädalavahetus oleks patt kodus teleka ees maha magada ja nii me Hiiumaale põrutasimegi.

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Meie ööbimiskohaks sai maailma kõige nunnum väike külalistemaja Orjaku sadama lähistel. Ma tundsin natuke süümekaid, et Ida olime “maha raputanud”, sest ta oleks täiega nautinud seda, et saab just nagu nukumajas ööbida, aga samas ei mäleta ma kuna me viimati Marekiga kahekesi ilma segamata puhkasime. Seega selline väikene romantiline põgenemine argipäevast kadakate vahele kulus väga ära.

Roose väikemaja asub paarisaja meetri kaugusel Orjaku sadamast ja kui veel eelmisel aastal ei oleks see mulle midagi öelnud, siis praegu oskan ma öelda, et see on VÄGA HEA asukoht. Eelmise aasta kohvikupäevade ajal nägin ma kui mõnus melu Orjaku sadamas toimus, lisaks veel õhtune kontsert, et praegu mõtlen ma, et peaks selle maja juba varakult endale kohvikupäevade ajaks broneerima. Kui just keegi ette ei jõua…

Maja ise on aga nii äge, et me Marekiga läksime vaidlema, kuhu meil seda rohkem vaja oleks – kas koduhoovi külalistemajaks või Prangli saarele suvemajaks. “Võtame kaks,” naersime me nagu meil oleks raha jalaga segada, aga unistama peab suurelt. Ja Cuubeni majad ON nunnud. Täpselt sellised pärissuuruses nukumajad, kus kõik vajalik (köögist wc-ni) olemas. Suurimaks boonuseks muidugi nö live televiisor suure klaasseina näol. Targem olekski olnud televiisor kinni panna, sest halllooooo Eesti Laulu teine poolfinaal oli selline jura, mille sarnast mina varem näinud polnud, ja nautida aknast avanevat loodust. Nagu tasuta National Geographic.

(PS. Tänu Klaudiale ja Jaagupile tutvusin ma Hiiu Gourmet toodetega ja jällegi natuke armusin. Siin minimajas olid ka need tooted olemas ja tuletasid mulle meelde, et ma pean end Nõmmele Toiduhaldjatesse vedama. See on Tallinnas ainus koht, kus neid müüakse. Minu teada.)

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Kui te arvate, et talvel ei toimu Hiiumaal midagi, siis te eksite. Sel nädalavahetusel oli meil valida, kas minna Olev Subbi aktimaalide näituse avamisele või Jääkala festivalile. Aga miks mitte mõlemat? Marek küll puikles alguses vastu, et tema ei taha minna erootikat vaatama, et miks tema ei võiks minna kala püüdma, kuid peale näitust (kuhu me nagu te aru saite siiski jõudsime) tunnistas isegi, et väga põnev oli. Eriti kuna Enn Kunila tutvustas maale ja Olev Subbi loomingut väga huvitavalt. Olev Subbi ei ole minu kõige suurem lemmik, kuid see näitus mulle meeldis. Värvid võlusid.

Lisaks näha Lurichit keset paljaid daame…Mul ei ole sõnu. Lurich on lihtsalt legend! Kui satute Hiiumaad külastama, siis minge näituselt läbi. Kaege oma silmga daamid ja Lurich üle. See on seda väärt.

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Orjaku sadamas toimus sel nädalavahetusel ka Jääkala Festival. Nii nagu korraldajad ja külastajad ütlesid, siis eesmärk on näidata, et Hiiumaal ei ole vaid suvel ilus ja ma ei saaks nendega rohkem nõustuda. Muidugi ilmaga vedas ka, aga isver kui mõnus oli veeta päev värskes õhus, looduses. Ja nii pagama ilus oli. Lõbus ka. Mina, vana tantsuvihkaja, keerutasin isegi kohaliku rahvatantsurühmaga koos Kalle Kustat. Sest no külm oli, kuradi külm oli lõpuks. Kalle Kusta tantsusammudele sain ma pihta muidugi alles siis kui tants läbi sai, aga keegi peab ju kloun ka olema ja vähemalt sooja sai. Muidu ei saanud arugi, et külm oli, ent peale seda kui me pubis soojendamas end käisime, puges külm kontidesse. Jumal tänatud, et mina olin eelmisel õhtul vanama käest villased sokid kätte saanud, sest muidu oleks mu varbad ära külmunud. Samas koju ei tahtnud ka minna, sest no tuleshow ja Jääääre kontsert olid veel ootamas.

Peale tuleshow vaatamist, mis oli küll maagiline, hakkas meil mõlemil veel külmem. Ei tea kui kuumavereline see naine pidi olema, et ta ära ei külmunud?

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Kontserdi ajal sattusime kokku ühe vana tuttavaga (kes muuseas on üks põhjusi, miks ma armastan külastada Laulasmaa (spaad ja) restorani, sest tema menüü noh) ja nautisime sõbraliku klatši saatel Jääääre imelist kontserti.

Kui lumevärv mu silmades on kustunud
kui taevast keerleb keerleb lund
kui tule värv on mu mälestuses tuhmunud
kuid süsi hõõgub hõõgub tuld

siis sinu suul siis sinu suul
on kogu külm on kogu kuum
siis sinu suul on kogu külm

Lumevärv on üks mu lemmikumaid lugusid. Ilus eesti keel ja ilus muusika. ILUS. Sobis nii kenasti päeva kokku võtma.

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Kontsert läbi, jooksime me kand ja varvas koju minimajja. No nii külm oli kontides. Niiii külm. Saun oli ainus asi, millest me mõtlesime ja pererahvas oli sauna mõnusalt juba kütte pannud. Meil ei olnud vaja muud kui oma külmunud kondid lavale vedada ja üles sulama minna. Aaaaahhhh isssssand jumal, kuidas ma tunnen meie kodus saunast puudust. Isssssand kui mõnus seal oli. Ja kui romantiliselt ilus ning vaikne oli talvine Orjaku. Vaid meie, lumi, kadakad ja mahe valgus. Ma mõtlen, et võib olla on lumine Hiiumaa isegi maagilisem kui suvine?

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Hommikuks olime me nii puhanud, et ärkasime enne kukke ja koitu. 8.30 sõitsime me praamiga mandrile tagasi. Killuke mu südamest jäi Orjakusse. Aitäh selle puhkuse eest! Aitäh! Me tuleme tagasi. Loodetavasti veel enne augustit. Ida võtame ka kaasa. See oleks vaid aus.

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I was supposed to go to Norway this weekend (I know I know, we only just got back), but instead, on Saturday morning, me and Marek sat on Tiiu and sailed to Hiiumaa. For me, it is no news that plans change and I cannot plan more than couple of days ahead where or which country I might be.

Funny story with Hiiumaa – I had been there only two times, but thanks to the Home Cafe Days, I went there last summer more often than to Tartu and completely fell in love. Hiiumaa offers me everything that I like. Nature, peace, art, culture, gourmet experience. No wonder I am in love. And why wait until summer to visit this wonderful island again? Specially, if we have such a beautiful winter like we have. It would be very stupid thing to spend childfree weekend watching TV. So we went to Hiiumaa.

We stayed in one of the cutest little guest houses in the world near Orjaku harbor. I felt a bit guilty for not having Ida with us, as she would really have enjoyed the fact that we stayed like in a little dollhouse. Then again, I cannot remember the last time we had a holiday, just me and Marek, alone. So this little romantic getaway from the daily routine into the bush was well needed.

Roose Tinyhouse is about 400 meters from Orjaku harbor. Even though that would have not meant anything to me last year, then I can assure you now, that it is A PERFECT location. During last year’s Home Café Days I saw the kind of buzz surrounding Orjaku harbor, not to mention the late evening concert ahead, that I am actually thinking of booking this place for myself for next Café Days. Unless, somebody is quicker than me…

The house itself is just too cool, that me and Marek couldn’t decide whether we need one as our guest house in the back yard or as a little summer house in Prangli island.  “Let’s take two” we were joking like we had loads of money. But they say, you have to dream big. And Cuuben houses ARE cute. Just like real life dollhouses, where you have all the necessary (from kitchen to toilet). The biggest bonus of course was the huge glass wall as a live TV. Actually, we should have shut the TV, because C’mon, the second semifinal in Eesti Laul was just too rubbish, and enjoy the nature and view behind the glass. Like National Geographic for free.

(PS! Thanks to Klaudia and Jaagup, I was introduced to products from Hiiu Gourmet and fell in love a bit more. This mini house had all these products to offer and reminded me that I have to go to Toiduhaldjad in Nõmme. That is the only place in Tallinn that sells their products … I think)

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If you think that there is nothing happening in Hiiumaa in wintertime, you are so wrong. This weekend we had to choose between going to the opening of Olev Subbi nude paintings exhibition or Icefish festival. But why not visit both? Marek was against it at first, that he does not want to go and see erotica, why can’t he go fishing, but after leaving the exhibition (which, as you can understand, we still visited), he admit it being interesting. Specially, because Enn Kunila introduced the paintings and his creation so interestingly. I am not the biggest fan of Olev Subbi, but I enjoyed that exhibition very much. I was fascinated by the colors.

And to see Lurich in the middle of naked ladies … I don’t have enough words. Lurich is a legend of his own! If you happen to visit Hiiumaa, then pop in to see that exhibition too. Go and check out the ladies and Lurich for yourself. It is worth it.

There was also an Icefish festival this weekend in Orjaku harbor. Like the organisers and visitors said, the aim was to show that Hiiumaa is beautiful not only during summer time and I could not agree more. Of course we were lucky with the weather, but my god how good it was to spend the day in fresh air and nature. It was so beautiful. And fun. Me, who hates dancing above all, was dancing together with a local folk group. Because it was cold, so god deem cold. I understood the steps only after the dance was finished, but somebody had to be the clown too. Plus, I became warm. Actually, you couldn’t feel the cold weather, but after going into the pub to get some warmth, the cold feeling stayed. Thankfully, I had received my woolen socks from grandmother the previous evening, otherwise my toes would have frozen. And I didn’t want to go home yet, as there was still fire show and Jäääär concert to come.

After seeing the magic fire show, we both got even colder. I wonder, how come the women, who performed,  didn’t freeze…

During the concert we met with an old friend of ours, who is one of the reasons I like visiting Laulasmaa (spa and) restaurant, because he has put the menu together. So there we were, chatting and gossiping friendly whilst enjoying the amazing concert.

Like the color of snow disappearing in my eyes

When the snow is swirling in the sky

Like the color of fire fading in my memories

But the coal is glowing fire.

 Then on your mouth, on your mouth

Is all the cold and all the heat

Then on your mouth is all the cold

“The color of snow” is one of my favorite songs. Beautiful Estonian and beautiful music. BEAUTIFUL. The right song to sum up the day.

After the concert we literally rushed into our mini house. We were just too cold. TOO COLD. Sauna was the only thing we could think of and luckily the hosts had already heated it up. We only had to drag our frozen bodies into the heat to start melting. Oh My God, how I miss not having a sauna at home. It was just soooo amazing. And how romantic and quiet was the winterly Orjaku. Only us, snow, junipers and soft light. I am actually thinking that maybe snowy Hiiumaa is even more magical than in the summer time…

We were well rested by morning and woke up with the dawn. We took the 8:30 ferry back to the main land. I left a little part of my heart to Orjaku. Thank you for this lounge! Thank you! We will be back. Hopefully, before August. And we will bring Ida this time. That would only be fare.

 

 

Hiking in my ballerinas

/ Eveliis / 2 Comments
A week ago I was so lucky to visit this lovely little mountainhotel in Rondane naturepark. It is the oldest and said to be the prettiest nature parks in whole Norway. It is hard to describe the beauty of this park with photos and words, you have to visit the park. Close your eyes and sense the mountains. Over 2000 metre-high tops decked in snow, the rays of sun on landscape, tranquilillity. The sun is shining but the temperature is low, the wind is blowing. The landscape with towering mountains is almost magical and the knowledge that you are in one of the most beautiful places in Norway makes it special.

In the middle of  this beauty one will find Høvringen Fjellstue. It is one of the oldest mountain lodges in Rondane which has been in the same family for more than 120 years. Their guestbook dates back to 1903, but they have been welcoming guests since the 1890’s. Today the hotel is run by 3. and 4. generation – mother Marit and son Tormod. They are the ones welcoming you when you enter the fjellstue.
It is hard to see this hotel as a hotel, as you can see history of the family in each corner of the house. Marit proudly shows you the chair her great grandfather made. It is a strange mixture of visiting a grandmother and a museum. The warm and good feeling when sitting by the fireplace and drinking hot cocoa after a hikingtrip in the mountains.  Or sitting in the “living room” enjoying the view. And it sure is magical waking up in total quietness to these views.

I got this urge to climb the highest mountains (as they seem so near when looking from the window) the moment I opened my eyes, but unfortunatley I discovered I had forgotten my hiking boots and you do not go far in your ballerinas. The whole evening I had laughed at my husvand who had forgotten a warm jacket, guess who was laughing when I didn’t find my boots in the suitcase…

I still went for a little walk, but really at 7 AM it was quite cold, so make sure you take with you warm clothes when you go there. Even if it is summer, it is cold in the mountains. But you knew that, right?
Our room was really nice. For me it was as Norwegian as it can get. Everything from wood – I remember when I moved to Norway first time 18 years ago it confused me, I didn’t like this style too much, but this time it was like coming home to one of my hostfamilies from Rotary-times. The hotel is closed for couple of months from the end of September, but they open again in the winter and I have this crazy idea to go back there in wintertime. “Remember “Shining”?” my husand joked, but somehow I don’t think Jack Nicholson will be there waiting for us. When we go back in the winter, I hope we can stay at a cottage. It seems so cozy.
Before breakfast we played, or tried to play chess. I had never in my life played it before, it seems so complicated. My husband tried to teach me and I must say it was quite fun, but I couldn’t rememeber all the rules, so I was happy when our daughter joined in and “saved” me from defeat.
The food in this hotel is exceptional. Again I thought of one of my hostfamilies, where creamy au gratin potatoes accompanied with brown sauce, beautiful lamb and vegetables was one of the dishes which was served in the weekends or holidays where whole family got together. It tasted so good then and it tasted so good now. I didn’t remember how much I had loved the brown sauce. Our daughter seemed to enjoy the meal as well and when a child likes the food, it sure must be good…

 

Before you go hiking you can pack a lunch bag and fill thermos with hot coffee or tea. How sweet is this? Yes, this is a lovely hotel and I am so glad I got the oppertunity to be there with my family. I mean, I am used to visiting the hotels with my daughter, everyone already knows that, but that my husband also got to be with us, that was such a blessing.
Thank you, Høvringen Fjellstua for a wonderful stay! 
Eestikeelset arvustust võite lugeda Hotelliveebi blogist SIIN.
 

Collect moments, not things*

/ Eveliis / 2 Comments

Kui ma aeg-ajalt ei oleks ikka sama sarkastiline, ärrituv, vihastav mina, siis ma julgeks öelda, et midagi on minuga väga valesti. Juba teist päeva oleme me Idaga rattaga sõitmas käinud, mõlemad päevad 12 kilomeetrit (mis minu jaoks on juba täielik eneseületus) ja ma tunnen, et see olen aina rohkem ja rohkem mina.

Sõidad mööda külavaheteid, omades mõtetes, teed peatusi, korjad lilli, paitad lambaid (kas ma pean siin kohal üldse  ütlema, et ma olen siiani loomi, välja arvatud koerad-kassid, kartnud?), jõuad…hmmm…kuhugi ja naudid lihtsalt loodust. Norra eeliseks on see, et vahet ei ole, kus pärapõrgus sa ringi ka ei sõidaks, ikka jõuad varem või hiljem mõne hingematva vaatega kohani.

Veel umbes aasta tagasi poleks ma millegi sellise peale küll vabatahtlikult tulnud. Veel umbes pool aastat tagasi vaatasin ma lastetooliga rattaid ja mõtlesin, et kuidas kurat niimoodi võimalik sõita on, MINA raudselt EI saaks hakkama. No ja siin ma nüüd siis olen.

Kui meie elu meid nüüd Eesti tagasi viib, siis just sellistest rattasõitudest hakkan ma puudust tundma. Hahh, meil pole Eestis isegi rattaid, nii et mugav vabandus, miks mitte liikuda, on kohe varnast võtta…

*Imal tsitaat, on. Ma olen nõus. Aga kuidagi sobis, sest eile kui ma hakkasin pilte tegeme, avastasin ma, et mälukaart jäi koju. Täna ei olnud mõtted ja kohad enam samad. Eilsed pildid salvestusid ühele teisele mälukaardile;)

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There is something wrong with me. If also my sarcasm and getting upset way too easily would have disappeared, I think I would need to go to the doctor’s. I sometimes don’t recognize myself. Who is this person riding a bike volunteerily two days in a row? Taking photos, petting the sheep, collecting flowers, taking small breaks. Is it me?

I think a year ago there would not be a chance to get me on a bike to ride 24km just somewhere. For fun. Half a year ago I was looking how people were riding bikes with children sitting in their seat and thought how is this possible, I could never do this. And what am I doing now?

The best thing about Norway is that no matter where you go, there is sooner or later a beautiful breathtaking place to find. If we now will leave Norway, this is what I am going to miss most. And we don’t even have bikes in Estonia, so knowing me, in a few months this lazy me finding excuses to not move her fat ass will return.

*The quote is cheesy I know, but also so right. Yesterday when I wanted to take photos I discovered I didn’t take memory card with me, and today the mood and places and views were not the same. Yesterday’s views were captured on a different memory card;)